Day 9 - b) Panmunjom and Joint Security Area

Sunday September 12, 2010

The irony of the term Korean Demilitarised Zone is that it is the most heavily militarised border in the world. The Joint Security Area is the only area of the DMZ where troops from each side stand face-to-face. It is the one place in the world where visitors can still truly feel the tension of the cold war first hand.

Panmunjom is a name often mistakenly used to refer to the JSA. It is actually the former village where negotiations between the United Nations and North Korea took place during the Korean War, and is about 800m north of the JSA. The village no longer exists but the North Korea Peace Museum is now on that site.

As we entered the car park of Panmunjom/JSA the guide pointed out a road sign that indicated "Seoul 70km" - a sad reminder of a divided nation. As it was only about 100m outside the gates after we hopped off the bus I asked Miss Jong permission to take a photo of it. She told me to do it quickly so I ran out of the car park, snapped a picture, then waddled back.

Seoul 70km.

It was then I realised the other tourists had seen me and wanted to do the same, but was stopped by the other guides. Military personnel then stormed in and demanded I show them the photos I took. The patrol soldier was satisfied that the only shot I took was the road sign (and not of rural scenes or people), but nevertheless he still reprimanded Miss Jong for allowing one of her guests to walk out of the complex unaccompanied. Of course I could understand what he was saying to her in Korean without him knowing.

One wonders what may have happened if the military knew I had a southern background. Mr Park explained that because the DMZ is such a sensitive area for the military the tour guides are powerless and we must adhere to the army instructions.

It was fair to say I was a bit shaken up by that incident, although I was also worried for Miss Jong for getting her into trouble. She was worried for me, and kept checking that I was okay and reassured me that all was well.

A very articulate young male soldier was our local guide for the Panmunjom and Joint Security Area. For the first time on this trip Miss Jong was taken off translation duties and the female guide from Group A, Ms Han, took the reins.

Me and the military guide in front of the North Korea Peace Museum.

 The North Korea Peace Museum on the actual site of Panmunjom displayed the armistice agreement to cease fighting in the Korean War. The original United Nations flag from sixty years ago was still there. The axe from the "Axe Murder Incident" is also exhibited in this building.

The Joint Security Area is a small "truce village" where conferences and meetings between the two sides are held. There are a series of buildings which straddle the military demarcation line - i.e. the border between South and North Korea. Being within these meeting buildings is the only way anyone can freely travel back and forth between the two Koreas. The atmosphere here is tense, with military personnel from both sides standing completely still on guard.

The military demarcation line is the concrete hump which the buildings are straddling (picture courtesy of Tim).

I had already toured the Joint Security Area from the south in 2003, so visiting it from the northern side this time was extra special. I managed to take some pictures from the opposite angle to the previous visit:

2003: On the southern side with my mother and sister, taken on the Freedom House Pagoda.

2010: On the northern side, with the Freedom House Pagoda in the background.