Day 6 - a) Kumsusan Memorial Palace (mausoleum of Kim Il Sung)

Thursday September 9, 2010

Thursday was a public holiday - National Foundation Day, to commemorate the founding of the nation of Democratic People's Republic of Korea. As such our group was anticipating seeing many locals out and about celebrating the occasion. All the local ladies (including Miss Jong) were dressed in traditional Korean dress (chosunbok as they call it in the north, hanbok in the south). Moreover we noticed that all of a sudden the previously quiet Yanggakdo Hotel was full of tourists - all the tours had aligned with the North Korean public holiday.

Kumsusan Memorial Palace was our first destination. This giant building was formerly the residence of the Great Leader Kim Il Sung, and is now his mausoleum. As a mark of respect we were required to dress up - blokes had to wear a collared shirt and tie, and the ladies had to choose "respectful" clothing. Fortunately I packed a tie and the business shirt I was wearing a week earlier when I left work to head to Sydney airport. Unfortunately I was wearing jeans and sneakers so I looked like Jerry Seinfeld. Tim sported a short sleeve shirt to resemble Dilbert:
A couple of mail boys at the Kumsusan Memorial Palace.

Due to National Day there were thousands of locals queued with us - it was a busy day for the Palace. Cameras were prohibited inside the building - the best way to describe it would be that it was like an airport, only the security was tighter. After checking in our bags and cameras at the cloak room, we went through x-ray machines, a shoe sole cleaner, a wind tunnel (to blow dust off us) and a body search. Then we rode stationary on moving walkways for what seemed like an eternity, was led through a maze of disorienting corridors, doors and elevators... Then we finally reached the queue to see Kim Il Sung resting.

At the final queue we had to form an orderly single line, then in groups of four we would approach the "feet" side of his glass casing, take a bow, move along to his right side, take a bow, move to his "head" side, take a bow, move to his right side, then you know what.

This was my first experience of a mausoleum and I thought the Great Leader looked pretty realistic. This opinion was affirmed eight days later when I visited Mao Zedong's mausoleum in Beijing - Mao looked very plastic compared to the Great Leader.

After viewing the resting place we were led to a small museum which displayed medals and honours bestowed upon Kim Il Sung by foreign dignitaries. Among the donors former second and third world nations obviously dominated, but there was an honorary degree from a United States university which caught our eye. I've forgotten the name of the institution but Tim did promise to look it up after the trip, so perhaps he can enlighten us. This museum was also enjoyed in an orderly single line.

After going through another maze to exit the building we retrieved our precious cameras and took some shots outside.
Group B at Kumsusan Memorial Palace.

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