Days 10 to 11 - Pyongyang to Beijing

Monday September 13 to Tuesday September 14, 2010

A domestic carriage carrying local passengers. (Photo courtesy of Tim)

We departed Pyongyang station on time at 10:10am. The first class carriages we were in were fairly modern with air conditioning. However twenty minutes out of Pyongyang it was switched off, and with the sealed windows the temperature was well in the high thirties for most of the journey. Were they saving power perhaps? I'm not sure.

On the way to the dining car we walked through the domestic carriages that the locals were using, and the second class sleeper cars that were packed with Chinese tourists. We did indeed have the best carriage, but the patrons on those carriages could open their windows for relief from the heat!

A rural scene on the way to Sinuiju (Photo courtesy of Tim).

The train passed through hundreds of kilometres of the western countryside. From what we read in the outside world these are the parts of the country which suffer greatly from floods. In fact just before our trip in late August the Yalu (Amnok) River flooded heavily causing damage both in China and North Korea.

Although we were now liberated from our guides there was one final hurdle expected at the border: camera inspectors. As well as bag inspectors officials specialising in camera technology would review our photos and delete any that portray the country in a negative light. I read beforehand that images taken from the train and of train stations is frowned upon - so deliberately did not use my camera during the long ride.

Domestic train passengers waving back at us. (Photo courtesy of Tim)

Several stops were made at country towns and often a domestic train heading to Pyongyang was stopped on the opposite platforms. The foreigners took advantage of these last chances for contact by waving at everyone outside. Indeed the locals on the other trains were responsive, smiling and waving back at us. At one stage the other tour members got me to write "Hello!" in Korean on a sheet of paper so we could display it through the window.

North Korean military personnel. (Photo courtesy of Tim)

At the border city of Sinuiju customs officers boarded to check our paperwork, then the bag and camera inspectors performed their duties. If you know me in real life ask me which photos and videos they deleted.

After a stifling two hour stop (we were not allowed to alight) for inspections and separation of domestic carriages we were finally headed to China!

The Sino-Korea Friendship Bridge connects Sinuiju and Dandong over the Yalu (Amnok) River. There is a second bridge about 100m next to it which was broken by the United States during the Korean War to cut the supply line from China. The remnant reaches about halfway from the Chinese side, and acts as an eerie reminder of "American imperialist aggression".

On the Sinuiju side of the river there is a large fake ferris wheel which is a prop to make it seem like North Koreans are always having fun. On the Chinese side there are speedboat operators who take tourists out to the river to take a peek into North Korea. Tourists can also walk to the end of the broken bridge to peer into the reclusive country.

As we crossed the river into China our mobile phones were returned to us, and a chorus of ringtones was heard through the carriage as everyone checked back into the "free world". You know you have just been to a truly bizzarre place when you call China liberal. In fact a few of us joked during thr train ride that we would not know what to do in Beijing: How will we know what time to wake up, have breakfast, and be on the bus by without someone telling us? We will not know what to do with ourselves.

At Dandong station there was another one hour stoppage to allow the North Korean carriages to join the Chinese train. Some of the tour members had an overnight side-trip at Dandong arranged, so we said goodbye to them.

After a lovely dinner in the Chinese dining car I hardly slept Monday night as our carriage was still without air conditioning. While on the top bunk I noticed Hannah walking by the corridor so asked:

me: Hannah, can you please ask the attendant to turn on the air conditioning?
Hannah: I tried before, but I'll ask again for you. How do you say "cold air" in Korean?
me: "chahn bahrahm", literally it means "cold wind".
Hannah: "chahn bahrahm" - okay, I shall go and ask for some cold wind!

The train zoomed through eastern China over Monday night, and by sunrise the rapid development of the country was on full display (I'd never seen so much construction in progress). Scenes like those reminded us of the tragic situation that North Korea is in - such advancement could easily be implemented there, if only the powerful few showed some initiative.

Early Tuesday morning what remained of the tour group bid our last farewell at Beijing railway station to complete an experience that would stay with us forever.